Rosebud

11bis rue Delambre, 14th.
M° Edgar Quinet or Vavin
Tel 01 43 35 38 54

I had actually never heard of Rosebud, even though I’ve passed by it many times over the past decade. It’s one of those old Parisian institutions, Like Harry’s or Closerie de Lilas, that have a loyal following of locals and random tourists who read about it in Fodor’s. It used to be one of Sartre’s haunts, and is still frequented by journalists, writers, artsy types from the 14th. They have vintage jazz records (those big round things that play music) stacked up by the bar, but I didn’t verify if they had a real record player or if it was just for looks. It’s a tiny bar with a 1930s, slightly scruffy decor, but bright and cheerful in the early evening when I stopped by.

My friend and I had some sangria (from the huge punch bowl), but it’s definitely more of a heavy liquor drinking bar, with a respectable list of cocktails as well. I could smell the chili in the kitchen, and wished I hadn’t just eaten.  The French barman was polite, even chatty once we started asking questions (ie Would it be strange for a woman to come here alone?). We finished our sangria and free nibbles (olives and crackers) and were gone by 10pm. Most of the post-office crowd had gone by then, too, and an older, more barfly-looking clientele began to arrive.

An interesting place, worth visiting if you’re dining at Le Dome next door.