19 Place des Vosges, 4th
Tel 01 42 78 44 64
This is one of my favorite Marais restaurants, tucked under the 17th-century stone and brick arcades of the Place des Vosges. With its red and white checked table cloths and old fashioned wooden tables, it’s got a nice country air about it, which would make it feel right out of Burgundy were it not for the typical Parisian wait staff in their white aprons and black vests. The fare is hearty, with huge servings of lentils and pork, foie gras, steaks, and enormous salads full of cheese and ham. The terrace seats, heated with gas parasols, are highly coveted even in the winter. No reservations. No elbow room if you sit inside. And the bathroom sink is pretty darned cool (use your leg to turn on the water), but it’s a bit of a feat getting up the narrow spiral stairs to get to it.