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Le Fumoir
6 Rue de l’Amiral Coligny, 1st
Tel 01 42 92 00 24
M° Louvre-Rivoli


Le Fumoir is an excellent little bar-restaurant behind the Louvre, cozy and low-lit so everyone looks good. Of course, the crowd here generally looks better than average even in bright lighting.

At the front is the bar, with plenty of newspapers and magazines to read if you’re flying solo. I haven’t actually eaten at the restaurant, yet. I tend to go for Happy Hour when their cocktails are more affordable (a whole page on the menu is dedicated to Martini cocktails), or afternoon tea for the gateau chocolat or a hot chocolat Viennoise…mmmmm.

There’s also a little library in the back where you can sit and read in peace or trade in your own books (in the afternoons only). If it’s nice out, there will be three or four tables on the sidewalk.

Do reserve a table in the evenings if you don’t want to stand around at the bar waiting for the charming Olivier to secure you a place to sit. The people watching is best towards the front.

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  • Ah another favorite place. It is terrific to spend a morning wandering around the Louvre then adjourn to Fumoir for chocolate and a snack.