Planning the holidays in Paris can be magical — but only if you have reliable information. Opening hours shift, events appear and disappear, and most online lists are incomplete or outdated. Each year I compile a comprehensive, independently researched Paris Holiday Guide for Secrets of Paris Community Members, updated weekly through January 1st. To give you an idea of what to expect, this is a small sample taken from five different sections of the full guide, to show the level of detail, accuracy, and context members rely on when planning their time in the city.
In this preview:
Department Store Holiday Windows & Events
It’s traditional to check out the elaborately decorated shop windows of the Grands Magasins (department stores), which have little wooden platforms so the kids can get a better look. Like the Champs-Elysées, sidewalks are less crowded after the shops close, so aim for visiting in the hour after closing time to avoid the crowds (but not too late, the lights are turned off a few hours later).
This teaser guide includes my favorite, Le Bon Marché, and one I think you can skip, BHV Marais. The full guide also includes Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, and Samaritaine. Click images to enlarge and see captions.
- Le Bon Marché (November 7th – December 31st)
24 rue de Sèvres, 7th, metro Sèvres-Babylone
Open daily 10am-7:45pm (Sunday from 11am); until 6:30pm on the 24th and 31st. Closed on Christmas and New Year’s Day.
This year’s holiday windows at the chic Rive Gauche department store have gone refreshingly old-school, with snow-covered wooden chalets decorated with strings of lights, where inside a merry band of stuffed rabbits are in their animated workshop making chocolates and carrots, accompanied by festive music. Expect more local families than international tourists. The wooden chalet theme continues throughout the store, featuring the season’s holiday wares, including Bon Marché-themed Christmas tree decorations at the “Superette de Noël” and several brands celebrating “Made in France” upcycled objects. The store’s holiday catalog is illustrated like a vintage newspaper with lots of great gift ideas (don’t forget many of the items in their store can be personalized). And back by popular demand, Le Bon Marché will be hosting Babel, “a dreamlike interpretation of the myth of the Babel tower that combines contemporary dance and circus” performances at nights after the store is closed, through December 31st; tickets €50-75 depending on seating. The holiday cakes and bûches de Noël will be available at La Grande Epicerie next door from November 27th, along with other unique gourmet gifts (open 8:30am-9pm, Sunday 10am-8pm).
- BHV Marais (November 18 – January 4)
52 rue de Rivoli, 4th, metro Hôtel de Ville or Châtelet.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sundays 11am-7pm, until 6:30pm on the 24th and 31st. Closed Christmas and New Year’s Day.
This year’s theme is “Rêverie de Noël”, dreaming of Christmas, in blue and silver. But since last month’s scandalous announcement of Shein taking over the 6th floor, Disney cancelled their holiday pop-up, and there has been an exodus of many luxury brands (and others that haven’t been paid in months), which may be the reason they’re the last grand magasin to display their holiday decorations. Not sure what they’re going to put on the empty shelves where Dior, Guerlain and other brands used to be. The “Artisan de Noël” Christmas decor section is filled with ornaments made in China. Maybe skip this one for now…
Skating Rinks
There are several skating rinks in and around Paris throughout the season. They may be ice or synthetic, indoors or outdoors, big enough to gain some speed, or barely big enough to do a twirl. Here is my honest appraisals of one of the eight rinks that seems to get the most press:
- Le Grand Palais des Glaces, 8th arrondissement, Metro Champs-Élysées – Clemenceau (December 14th – January 7th). The self-proclaimed “biggest indoor ice rink in the world” features 2700m² of ice skating under the massive glass roof, and a special area cordoned off for the youngest kids. On the downside, it’s quite pricey (even more expensive than last year), and there’s zero holiday decorations or ambiance (just a large disco ball and flashing lights). Another issue is the massive lines to get in (even with tickets), and more lines to get and then return your skates (for the evening time slot, we waited about 40 minutes to get in and another 30 minutes for the skates). The evening DJ party is fun for teens or adults who don’t mind skating in a crowd to dance music (I have read there’s no music during the day, but haven’t tested it myself yet). Three time slots to reserve online: 10am-1pm (€27 adults/€15 kids), 2-7pm (€32 adults/€18 kids), and 8pm-2am (€39 flat rate). Even parents just accompanying their kids and not skating need a ticket. Closes at 7pm on Dec 24th and 31st. There’s also a Pass Premium ticket for €89 for a dedicated entrance and private skate rental area (therefore, zero lines). Note that the snack bar is only accessible to those without skates on, so you can go before or after you skate, but you can’t take a break for a hot chocolate and then return to skating. The coat/bag check is €2/item (wear a small backpack and keep your coat on; it’s not heated!
Christmas Markets, Holiday Bazaars & Gift Shopping
Christmas Markets, aka Marchés de Noël are traditionally found in the French region of Alsace (the most famous is the Strasbourg Christmas Market), but Paris has quite a few Christmas markets of its own, some small with just a few wooden chalets, others huge affairs with rides and entertainment. All of them are free, and sell a selection of holiday gifts and decor, mulled wine and other gourmet goodies. The latest trend is seeing a lot more emphasis on unique themes such as sustainability, quality and artisanal products made in France, and markets supporting charities. This isn’t an exhaustive list (see the Paris Tourism Office for that), but it includes many of the ones worth crossing town to visit, as well as special holiday sales benefitting local charities. Most of these markets are usually closed on Christmas Day and close early on Christmas Eve.
I’ve included two of my favorites in this teaser. The full guide includes 37 holiday markets listed by category: Traditional Christmas Markets, Christmas Markets for a Good Cause, Art & Artisan Christmas Markets, Christmas Markets Celebrating Sustainability & Diversity. Click images to enlarge and see captions.
- Noël à La Villette (November 20–December 28)
Place de la Fontaine-aux-Lions, Parc de la Villette, 19th arrondissement, metro Porte de Pantin, open Mon-Tues 5-9pm, Wed-Sun 11am-10pm (Wed until 9pm, Sun until 8pm). Closes 4pm Dec 24th. Free entry. Outdoors.
La Villette has launched one of the most adorable Christmas Markets this season, a new Swiss-inspired Christmas village set around the monumental Fontaine aux Lions. More than 100 artisan and food chalets line the square, along with seasonal attractions including a Ferris wheel and a real ice rink (both €8-€11). Visitors can browse handcrafted gifts, enjoy winter specialties, and take part in special events and activities programmed throughout the season. There are plenty of scenic places for holiday photos, and fireplaces to keep warm. While there are plenty of picnic tables and covered tables for eating, the only indoor seating is at the Chalet à Fondue (which can be reserved online to ensure you get a table). The neighboring guinguette is a place to stop for a glass of mulled wine before or after dinner, with extended evening hours and DJ entertainment. Crowds are much smaller before 5pm (when the photos above were taken).
- Marché de Noël Paris Notre Dame (November 28-December 25)
Square Vivani, 5th arrondissement, metro St-Michel or Cluny-Sorbonne. Open daily 10am-8pm.
Notre Dame Cathedral is the magnificent backdrop for this small but charming market just across the river. There are two dozen artisan stands selling crafts, décor, gifts (all made in France), and a few gourmet foods to keep you warm, including artisan pretzels (or bretzels, in French), and hot soup bowls. Santa is there each day for free photo ops. Note that the small space and proximity to Notre Dame mean this market gets VERY crowded on weekend afternoons, so try and get there early on a weekday.
Holiday Cooking Classes in Paris
If you’re thinking of hosting your own holiday meal in Paris learn about the Traditional French Christmas Menu by Florence of Zest of France, or sign up for one of the many cooking classes available in English this season.
- Traditional Christmas Dinner Cooking Classes (Meeting the French)
- French Holiday Cuisine (La Cuisine)
- Christmas Pastries, Festive Dishes and Market to Table Experience (Ritz Paris)
- French Christmas Desserts Baking Class (Cook’n with Class)
This is part of the “Dining in Paris during the Holidays” section which includes 42 restaurants open on Christmas and New Year’s Day, dinner cruises, how to make holiday dining reservations, and where to go for a casual meal if you don’t have any reservations.
Christmas Illuminations Concert at the Collège des Bernardins
One of the oldest monastic buildings in Paris and a key cultural partner of Notre-Dame Cathedral, the Collège des Bernardins hosts an annual Advent Concert on Wednesday, December 10th, performed by the children’s and youth choir of the 5th arrondissement conservatory. The program features traditional carols and works by Britten, Fauré, and John Rutter, with mulled wine and hot chocolate served in the nave afterward. From 5:30-6:30pm at the Collège des Bernardins (20 rue de Poissy, 5th arrondissement, metro Maubert–Mutualité or Cardinal Lemoine). Free entry, bundle up for the cold!
This is from the “Midnight Mass & Spiritual Celebrations in Paris” that includes my favorite addresses for Christmas services, five churches holding early morning candlelight masses for Advent, and where to find Hanukkah candle lighting ceremonies in Paris.
Access the Full 2025 Paris Holiday Guide
The listings above represent only a glimpse of what’s inside the full 35-page 2025 Paris Holiday Guide, which includes where to see the holiday lights, verified restaurant openings, dozens of Christmas markets, open-air light trails in the city’s gardens, seasonal activities like skating and ballroom dancing, holiday concerts and shows, New Year’s Eve celebrations, and practical information on transport, safety, essential services, and holiday opening hours. The complete guide is updated weekly through January 1 and is available exclusively to Secrets of Paris Community Members. To access the full version, support independent, ad-free journalism by joining the community for €60/year or €10/month (cancel anytime). Learn more…
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