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Author - Scott Dominic Carpenter

French Culture

Ho-ho-hum. Christmas in Paris

When you’ve gone around the merry-go-round of life as many times as I have, all you really want for Christmas is a thrill. Fact is, I don’t need more things (though a cattle prod would make a nice stocking-stuffer; I’d use it on those people...

French Culture

La Modification

Paris changes, poet Charles Baudelaire wrote, faster than the human heart, and as far as my neighborhood is concerned, he was right. We’d hardly settled into our new digs before people starting tearing things up....

French Culture

Creeping Beneath Paris

One Sunday not long ago, on a Paris street that shall remain nameless, I met up with a mustachioed Frenchman we’ll call Gilles. He wore tattered blue coveralls and carried a four-foot-long iron bar. When no one was looking, he pried open a manhole cover, and...

Money Matters

How to Get Your Money to Paris

In Paris it’s possible to burn through money pretty fast, and you feel awfully vulnerable when you run out. So, let's look at how you can replenish the coffers without paying absurdly high fees, commissions, and exchange rates. Everything from wire transfers...

French Culture

Either/Or: The Art of Choosing

It was one of those intimate, white-linen affairs—the kind of restaurant that requires me to dig my necktie out of the mothballs, where even the busboys out-dress me. But it was Anne’s birthday, and that called for heroic acts of selflessness. Besides, a...

French Culture

The French Political Circus

We’ve been so busy gawking at the sorry slapstick of American politics that it’s easy to forget the other circus acts going on around the Atlantic rim. In France they’re trying to show how many clowns can fit inside the teeny cars of political primaries, and...

Live Music

Getting Jazzed in Paris

New York may be the city that never sleeps, but Paris at least has a late bedtime. Once a year there's the all-night art festival of the Nuit Blanche, but for the other 364 days a year, nocturnal activities are less centrally organized. If you want to push...