What’s On in Paris – November 2023

November 1st (Le Toussaint, aka All Saints Day aka Day of the Dead) and November 11 (Armistice Day) are bank holidays in France

Vacances Scolaires (French School Holidays): October 21-November 6.

Through November 1
Stuff yourself with all kinds of chocolately goodies at the annual Salon du Chocolat, at the Paris-Expo – Porte de Versailles (metro line 12), 10am-7pm. Entrance €16 (advance reservations €14, €7.20 for kids under 12), €40 for families. You can get advance tickets online or ask at your favorite chocolate shop if they have any extra invitations. Avoid the weekend unless you’re a masochist!

November 2
Lost in Frenchlation is hosting a screening of the critically acclaimed new French thriller, La Règne Animal (starring Roman Duris) with English subtitles on November 2^nd at the Luminor Hôtel de Ville Cinema (20 rue du Temple, 4^th). The event starts with a cocktail reception from 7pm (free drink if you wear your Halloween costume); the film begins at 8pm. Tickets €7-€11. Can’t make it? Check out the many other film events throughout the month in Paris, Lyon, Biarritz, Caen, and Beaulieu.

Through November 4
The Jour des Morts (aka Dia de los Muertos, aka Day of the Dead, aka Toussaint in France) is officially November 1st, but there are events all over Paris in the week leading up to it, from celebratory altars and music concerts to parades and “catrinas” contests. See the list of events here.

November 5 is the first Sunday of the month when many museums are free; some require a reservation and some don’t.

November 8-12
The 47th annual Salon Marjolaine, the largest organic fair in Paris, takes place this week at the Parc Floral (Bois de Vincennes) with 450 stands selling everything organic you could imagine: produce, meats, cheeses, artisan oils, wines, essential oils, herbs, teas, cosmetics, beauty products, household cleaning products, clothing, shoes, accessories, home decor, books, gardening supplies, as well as stands for environmental tourism, different green activist groups such as Greenpeace, etc. There are also plenty of food stands for lunch onsite, a coat check, and a little shuttle from the metro Château de Vincennes to the entrance of the Parc Floral. Open 10:30am-7pm (Friday until 9pm). Entry €10, but you can get a €3 discount voucher on the website to print out in advance (or pay the ticket online in advance and skip waiting in line).   

November 9-12
Time to stock up on original Christmas gifts “Made in France” at the 10th annual MIF Expo at the Porte de Versailles (expo hall 3): “MIF Expo offers a showcase that allows French industry, innovation and creativity to meet consumers.” There will be gourmet goodies, toys, home & decor, clothing, beauty & hygiene products, and technological innovations. Get a preview of the show on this video. Open 10am-7pm (Sunday until 6pm), get a free invitation on the website or pay €10 at the door (reimbursed with your first purchase). Note that coat check is €2/item.

November 8-19
Time for the 22nd annual Day of the Dead art exposition at the print-making gallery and artist atelier, the Association pour l’Estampe et l’Art Populaire (49bis, rue des Cascades, 20th). Come see the traditional altar, and artworks celebrating the dead from 22 different artists in the heart of Belleville. The exposition is open daily 3-8pm (vernissage November 11th at 6pm). Free entry.

November 10-19
“Secrets de Bijoux” is a free exhibition presented by Francéclat at the historic Réfectoire des Cordeliers (15 rue de l’École de Médecine, in the St-Germain-des-Prés district) that aims to educate both adults and children about the world of precious jewelry. There are 250 pieces of jewelry from French brands on display, showcasing various precious materials and manufacturing techniques (both traditional craftsmanship and modern innovations). A Secrets of Paris member highly recommended this after checking it out. Open daily 11am-7pm, no reservations needed.

November 11 is a bank holiday in France (1918 Armistice Day)
This is an international holiday celebrating the end of World War I (November 11, 1918) and all war veterans. There will be a ceremony at the Arc de Triomphe at 11am (it will be broadcast on French TV). Post offices, government offices and some restaurants and shops will be closed. Department stores open a bit later than usual (either 10am or 11am). Most museums and monuments are open as usual (but check in advance, because a few like Le Petit Palais are closed).

November 14
IVY Writers Paris is hosting an evening of poetry reading at the Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore (9 & 11 Rue de Medici, 6th) tonight at 6:30pm featuring Leonard Schwartz, the author of numerous books of poetry.

November 16
Although it’s rather low-key in France compared to the hype it gets in America, the annual Beaujolais Nouveau festival takes place in wine bars throughout Paris today. You can find events at almost any wine bar in Paris, but if you’re hurting for ideas this article has a map of listings throughout France (and the world) that will be doing something special to celebrate.

November 17
As part of the Festival des Fiertés (Pride Festival), “Fab as Us” is an evening of two projections, a talk and a performance by Frank Lamy, Sacha Rey, and Anthedemos at La Fab contemporary art space (Place Jean-Michel Basquiat, 13th) from 7-11pm. Tickets €8.

November 17-18
The charity shop Emmaüs Alternatives is having a “Grande Vente au Kilo” at the La Maison des Réfugiés (50 Boulevard Jourdan, 14th) from 11am-6pm, €10 per kilo of clothing and accessories.

November 17-18
The recently-formed Paris Municipal Police are celebrating their two-year anniversary with an open house at the Caserne Napoléon barracks (1 Place Baudoyer, 4th, metro Hotel de Ville or St Paul) Friday from 2-8pm, and Saturday 11am-5pm. There will be a recruitment stand, photo call with the officers, an exposition on the creation and history of Paris Municipal Police, and demonstrations (self defense, radar binoculars, sound level meters, and body cams). On Saturday at 2:30pm there will also be a conference looking back over the past two years and how effective the Municipal Police have been in their mission, at the Hôtel de Ville Salle du Conseille (4 rue Lobau, 4th).

November 17-19
Discover the local artisans of Paris this weekend through “Paris Local”, a Tourism Office initiative to promote the restaurants, artisans, and artists of Paris through visits and activities. It’s also a great way to find the addresses of all the local artisans and restaurants specializing in locavore cuisine. The site is only in French but with a little Google translating you shouldn’t have any problems finding events that will interest you.

November 17-19
After seven years of renovations, the Musée Nationale de la Marine (National Maritime Museum) at the Palais de Caillot (Place du Trocadéro) is celebrating its reopening with free entry for everyone this weekend. There will be plenty of events including live music, demonstrations, film screenings, and more. Check out the full program here (only in French).

November 17, 20, 21
The 4k restoration of the 1991 cult French film Delicatessen is showing this week at the Luminor Hôtel de Ville, the last independent cinema in the Marais. It’s in French, but there’s so little dialogue, you can read the synopsis and follow along easily. Tickets €8-11.

November 17 – January 7
Don’t miss the 3rd annual Lumières en Seine, a dazzling light show in the gardens of the Domaine de Saint Cloud (west side of Paris accessible via metro). “From the very entrance at the Clémenceau gates, this special light trail will take you on a magical journey through fire gardens and frosted forests, over fields of fairies and illuminated waterfalls. Along the way you’ll pass by a charming merry-go-round and Santa’s sleigh as well as a cozy rest spot, where you can enjoy mouth-wateringly good food, mulled wine and hot chocolate.” It was so popular last year that prices have gone up, and the age for free kids is under 3 years old. Open tickets (undated) are €27 for adults, €20 for kids 3-11. Dated tickets for a specific day are €20 (€16 kids) Mon-Thurs, €22 (€18 kids) for Fri-Sat and school holidays. Purchase online in advance and dress warm!

November 19
The holiday season in Paris officially kicks off with tonight’s ceremony turning on the lights of the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, at 7:35pm. Each year there’s a star (this year it’s the French actor Gilles Lellouche) to help children from Les Petits Princes charity push the magic button to light up the avenue, broadcast live on France 3. In order to make the most of this special day, the Champs-Elysées will be reserved for pedestrians, with live music, dancers, then a DJ from 4pm through 8pm. The lights will be on each night from 5pm to midnight until January 7th.

November 20
“Concert Dessiné” is a unique (and free) musical artistic experience tonight at Le Petit Bain (péniche in the 13th, Port de la Gare), featuring French pop singer Numah and illustrator Morgane Guerry, who will be live painting as Numah sings. Free entry, but reservations a must HERE.

November 23-25
The annual Salon Idées Japon features all kinds of arts, decor, foods, and clothing from Japan just in time for the holiday shopping. At the Espace Cinko (12-18, Passage Choiseul, 2nd). Open 11am-7:30pm.

November 24-26
Les Banques Alimentaires — French food banks — are holding their annual collection drive this weekend to stock up for the winter. You’ll see them just after the check-outs in supermarkets where you can purchase food and hygiene products to contribute, or you can also sign up to volunteer for two hours via monpaniersolidaire.org

November 24-December 3
The Semaine des Galeries Parisiennes de l’Estampe et du Dessin is a weeklong festival highlighting prints and drawings in 15 participating Parisian art galleries. It’s a chance to check out both contemporary and antique works by artists selected by passionate professionals in the center of Paris. Free entry. See the list of galleries here: https://www.csedt.org/en/home/

Through November 25
The Galerie Itinerrance (24bis boulevard du Général Jean Simon, 13th), one of the leading street artist galleries in Paris, is hosting an exhibition of the artist INTI, whose gorgeous mural you can see at 91 Boulevard Vincent Auriole, 13th. The exposition is open Tues-Sat 11am-7pm.

November 25
La Cité Fertile in Pantin is calling for all arsty-craftsy volunteers to help create the Cité Noël Christmas village today from 2-4pm. Come out for an afternoon of painting, drawing, and a bit of DIY bricolage in a festive atmosphere, no experience is needed (you probably should understand at least a tiny bit of French, but someone will certainly be able to help translate if you’re willing to put yourself out there). Sign up here: https://citefertile.com/evenement/chantier-benevole-cite-de-noel-2/

November 28-December 1
The 2023 Braderie (brocante) in the Salles Royales at the Eglise de la Madeleine (below the church, look for the side entrances outside the church) takes place this weekend with clothing and shoes for men, women, & children, flea market items, books, toys, etc. Open Tuesday 2-7pm, Wed-Thurs 10am-7pm.

November 29
If you want to visit the newly-opened Maison Gainsbourg, tickets go on sale for 2024 today at noon CET. The house visits sell out fast, and they are really worth the price!

November 30-December 3
The 45th annual Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants celebrates independent wine makers at the Palais des Expositions – Porte de Versailles in Paris, Pavillion 3, open 10am-8pm (until 7pm the last night). Entry €6 (includes your souvenir tasting glass). In addition to hundred of winemakers, there are also a few food stands, cart rental, and wine tasting workshops.