What’s On in Paris – December 2023

Looking specifically for Christmas markets and what’s open on Christmas and New Year’s Day? Check out the 29-page 2023 Paris Holiday Guide with holiday events from November 19th through January 7th.

VACANCES SCOLAIRES (French School Holidays): December 23rd, 2023 – January 8th, 2024

November 28-December 1
The 2023 Braderie (brocante) in the Salles Royales at the Eglise de la Madeleine (below the church, look for the side entrances outside the church) takes place this weekend with clothing and shoes for men, women, & children, flea market items, books, toys, etc. Open Tuesday 2-7pm, Wed-Thurs 10am-7pm.

December 1-5
The artisan boutique Storie will be having a pop-up Vente de Nöel at the Atelier MBC (6 Rue Huyghes, 14th) for five days, selling
elegant artisan home goods (linens, ceramic) and jewelry in a Montparnasse atelier hidden in a historic passage (send the owner Fiona an IG message if you can’t find the entrance, English spoken). Open 11:30am-7:30pm.

December 2
Le Sub Pigalle (3 Place de Clichy, 8th) music club is hosting a special Dolly Parton tribute night of Kararocké (karaoke with a live rock band) with guest singers and prizes for the best “Dolly”. From 11pm, tickets €10, send an email to  cyrilbodin9@gmail.com and ullmann.tcb@gmail.com to get on the list.

November 24-December 3
The Semaine des Galeries Parisiennes de l’Estampe et du Dessin is a weeklong festival highlighting prints and drawings in 15 participating Parisian art galleries. It’s a chance to check out both contemporary and antique works by artists selected by passionate professionals in the center of Paris. Free entry. See the list of galleries here: https://www.csedt.org/en/home/

November 30-December 3
The 45th annual Salon des Vins des Vignerons Indépendants celebrates independent wine makers at the Palais des Expositions – Porte de Versailles in Paris, Pavillion 3, open 10am-8pm (until 7pm the last night). Entry €6 (includes your souvenir tasting glass). In addition to hundreds of winemakers, there are also a few food stands, cart rental, and wine tasting workshops.

December 3
Today is the first Sunday of the month, which means many museums and monuments are open for free (some require reservations and some don’t accept reservations), including the Centre Pompidou, Orsay, l’Orangerie, Rodin, Picasso, Delacroix, Cluny, Arc de Triomphe, Sainte-Chapelle, the Panthéon and Versailles. You might want to try one of the (slightly) less crowded establishments, such as Cité de l’Architecture, Arts-et-Métiers, Cité de la Céramique de Sèvres, Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature, Musée Albert-Kahn, Château de Vincennes or the Saint-Denis Basilica. See the full list here.

December 3
Heads up if you’re on the Left Bank today: there will be a protest march today commemorating the 40th anniversary of the series of marches in 1983 known as “Les Marches des Beurs” (The Arabs’ Marches) for equal rights and justice, and also to protest the current government’s new asylum and immigration bill. It will start at 1pm from the Place du 18 Juin 1940 (Montparnasse) and end at the Place d’Italie in the 13th (ending at 5pm).

December 3-4
This weekend’s Bag of Books Sale is a fundraiser for the SOS Helpline in English. The entrance fee is €15/person, and you can fill your own bag with as many books as you can carry. There will be used books of all types in English including nonfiction, fiction, travel, romance, thrillers, cookbooks, and art (also dvds and some French books). It’s hosted at the Bill & Rosa’s Book Room (42, rue du Chemin Vert 92100 Boulogne-Billancourt,M° Porte de Saint Cloud) from 1-6pm. For more details: https://soshelpline.org/attend-an-event/

December 5-February 9
Murmuration is a mesmerizing performance choreographed by Sadeck Berrabah at the 13e Art theatre, back for more dates after a successful summer run. “More than 40 dancers will make you travel and dream for 75 minutes.” Tickets €20-59. SHows in the afternoon and evening. Get a sneak preview here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9IxogvCvxo&t=119s

December 6
French professor (and serial Parisian resident) Cathy Yandell will be presenting her new book, “The French Art of Living Well: Finding Joie de Vivre in the Everyday World” tonight at the Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore (across from Luxembourg Gardes, 11 rue de Médicis, 6th). All welcome, no RSVP necessary.

December 6
Catch a lunchtime concert of 16th and 17th-century Renaissance and Baroque guitar music at the gorgeous Collège des Bernadins (a 13th-century former Cistercian abbey in the Latin Quarter, 20 rue de Poissy, 5th), by students from the Conservatoire National Supérieur de Musique et de Danse de Paris. From 12:30pm-1:20pm, tickets €10-15. Reserve here.

December 7
The French Republican Guard Orchestra and the Paris Sciences et Lettres Choir come together to perform Beethoven, Beffa and Prokofiev in the Saint-Louis Cathedral at Les Invalides tonight at 8pm. Tickets 8-€25.

December 7-10
It’s time for the 30th annual Grande Braderie de la Mode AIDS, a huge sale of 150 top brands to benefit HIV/AIDS charities at the Magasins Generaux (1 rue de l’Ancien Canal, Pantin, metro Eglise de Pantin). New clothing and accessories (shoes!) are for sale at 70% off their regular price. Open Thurs-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm. Get there as early as possible in the day for the best selection. Entry is €2, RESERVATIONS REQUIRED: https://www.aides.org/braderie

December 8
Lost in Frenchlation celebrates their 8th anniversary tonight with a screening of the French film “Simple Comme Sylvain” (The Nature of Love) with English subtitles at L’Entrepôt Cinéma (7 Rue Francis de Pressensé, 14th). Drinks, raffle & custom ice-cream by Kev Glace from 7pm, screening at 8pm. Tickets €7-€8.50.

December 9
The AAWE (Association of Women in Europe) is hosting its annual Winter Festival & Holiday Sale at the American Church in Paris (65 Quai d’Orsay, 7^th), featuring vintage clothing, crafts, baked goods, English books, toys and an American Snack Bar. Open noon-6pm. Free entry, RSVP required.

December 9-10
An original artwork purchased directly from the artist makes an original gift! You won’t find it announced anywhere online, but 15 ateliers at the legendary artists post-squat, Les Frigos (19 rue des Frigos, 13th) will be open to the public this Saturday 1-8pm and Sunday 2-7pm, including the painter Guillaume (4th floor, escalier B). Worth a visit even if you’re not shopping for art.

December 9-10
Time for the annual La Braderie Solidaire market at the CIté Audacieuse (9 rue de Vaugirard, 6th), where 30 partner brands have donated hundreds of new items —  jewelry, clothing, accessories, books, and cosmetics at discounted prices — in support of the Fondation des Femmes, which fights against gender inequalities and violence against women. Open Saturday 11am-6pm, Sunday until 5pm, free entry, reservation highly recommended here.

December 9-10
Did you know there’s a patron saint for French artillery and firefighters? The Army Museum at Les Invalides celebrates the Fête la Sainte Barbe with a week of free activities, such as this weekend’s artillery demonstrations at 2pm: “Through the evocation of great episodes in history, from the First World War to the present day, the Draguignan Artillery School (accompanied by the military band) presents contemporary artillery pieces: 120 mm mortar, Griffon-MEPAC, CAESAR cannon, SERVAL light multi-role armored vehicle carrying a MISTRAL anti-aircraft missile system, drone and anti-drone system, which the artillerymen will manipulate in front of spectators in the majestic main courtyard of the Invalides.” Bundle up, and get there early to make sure you get in!

December 13-21
The artists’ collective Lézarts de la Bièvre is holding an exposition of their works — paintings, photographs, sculptures, etchings, ceramics, fiber arts — by 50 artists at the Mairie du 13ème’s Galerie Bièvre et Athena. Vernissage on the 14th from 6:30-9pm. Open Mon-Wed, and Fri 9am-5pm, Thurs 1-7:30pm, Sat 9am-12:30pm.

December 14-January 7
The EL SQUAD troupe returns to Paris with their unique dance show, Lights in the Dark, at the Théâtre Libre (4 boulevard de Strasbourg, 10th). Directed by world-renowned hip-hop choreographer Yokoi, who will “introduce you to a technology that allows dancers to move in total darkness to create extraordinary spooky and luminous effects. LIGHTS in the DARK is aimed at fans of physical performances, urban dance, technology and the world of manga and video games.” Tickets €27-€57.

December 15-17
The annual Expo4Art art fair at the Halle des Blancs Manteaux (48 rue Vieille du Temple, 4th) features 70 painters, sculptors, photographers and designers who want to promote their work and their talent. Free entrance, open Friday from 3-9pm and Saturday to Monday from 11am- 8pm.

December 15-17
If you’re in the 16th arrondissement this weekend, pop by the Portes Ouvertes open house of the 19 artists and 16 students of Seiziem’Art (Mairie du 16ème, 17 ave Henri-Martin, 16th). Photography, sculptures, and painters. Open Fri 2-6pm, Sat-Sun 10am-6pm. Free entry.

December 18
Brooklyn-based singer-songwriter Remy de Laroque is coming to Paris to perform a concert with French singer Marie Cyrille MC at the Centre Paris Anim’ Point du Jour (9 Rue du Général Malleterre, 16th). “Come celebrate the holidays with a warm Acoustic Folk/Rock sound, mixed with classical arrangements, ethnic touches and world influences.” Original French and English songs written and arranged by Remy de Laroque, with acoustic guitars/vocals, cello, violin, flute and percussions. Concert 7:30pm until 9pm and then light drinks and food after the concert until 10pm. Tickets: €25 euros.

December 31st
The City of Paris always throws a free party on the Avenue des Champs-Elysées to ring in the New Year (aka Réveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre), with a midnight countdown light show and fireworks on the Arc de Triomphe (the Eiffel Tower fireworks are only on Bastille Day). The festivities begin at 7pm with musical and artistic programming including DJ sets, a giant karaoke, aerial performances of Deus ex machina, and a performance of “De l’Amour”, France’s candidate song for Eurovision 2024, by the singer Slimane. The laser show projected onto the Arc de Triomphe from 11:40pm, with fireworks after the midnight countdown. You can watch it live on France 2.

Through January 14th
The Quai Branly Museum is hosting Bollywood Sundays featuring dancing and music from India from 3-5pm. “From Punjab to Tamil Nadu, from the royal courts of Rajasthan to the nightclubs of Mumbai, travel through all the musical and cultural wealth of contemporary India. Once a month, the Bollywood Balls take you to the dance floor for a festive initiation inspired by the greatest films of the subcontinent.” See the full schedule here. Open to all with museum entrance, space permitting.

Through March 31
 Aura Invalides is an immersive evening light show inside the Dôme des Invalides. “Showcasing the iconic monument’s rich architecture and heritage through light, video mapping, and music, AURA INVALIDES takes you on a spectacular journey worthy of its setting.” The experience lasts 50 minutes, during which time you’re free to stroll around at your leisure to enjoy the entire experience. Note that there are no toilets, no seating, no coat check, no strollers allowed, and there is no elevator or ramp for those who can’t go up/down the stairs. Open Tues-Sat with shows at 7:15pm and 8:45pm (and some at 10:15pm around the holidays). Tickets €9.50-€22 (cannot be purchased on-site, you need to buy them online).