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To pretty much no one's surprise, Rock-en-Seine (Paris) headliner Amy Winehouse didn't show up at her 10pm appearance on Friday, August 29. Festival attendees were left waiting until the last minute, just 30 minutes before showtime, to find out that the British singer would be pulling yet another no-show. The only hint came from the Raconteurs, who dedicated a song to her during their earlier performance at Rock-en-Seine. "This is for Amy Winehouse, who won't be here tonight."

The French techno group Justice started 30 minutes later than planned while the roadies from The Streets moved the band's set to the main stage to replace Winehouse. "As you can see, I am not Amy Winehouse," said Mike Skinner, singer of The Streets to the cheering crowd. Then he added, "Sorry, she's in London doing crack." The Streets added a few extra lines to their first song, "They tried to make me go to rehab, but I said No, No, No!" 

The Streets performed a great show, and it's hard to imagine anyone missed Winehouse. If you purchased a ticket, refer to the Rock-en-Seine website on Saturday to find out about getting a partial refund.

The sixth annual Rock-en-Seine Festival at the Parc de Saint Cloud started last week, Wednesday August 20, with Rage Against the Machine headlining. The weather was perfect, slightly overcast but dry (after a very wet August) and there was a huge crowd despite the fact that it was a Wednesday night in the middle of the French holidays. There was a fabulous warmup by Mix Master Mike, who mixes *real* records so well it makes you want to cry (even in a town like Paris where there are supposedly some decent DJs).

Then Rage Against the Machine, who played their first song wearing orange prison suits and black bags over their heads, played for two hours to an unusually rambunctious crowd. I've been to Rock-en-Seine three years in a row, and have been to countless rock concerts in Paris, and it's rare to see the crowd really get into it like they do in the States (even at the Nine Inch Nails concert at the Olympia the crowd was so mellow I thought the management were secretly pumping the concert hall full of opium). Do a little cruise around YouTube videos of the concerts and you'll see that there are no steady camera shots from any distance (too much jumping around). Maybe we should all just give up on trying to record it for our friends back home and just get out there and have fun. ;)

Since the main part of the festival with three stages doesn't start until today, there were only a few stands set up. I saw someone eating a pizza and wandered for a good half hour, getting distracted by the different art and photography exhibitions, that by the time I found the stand they were all gone. So I got a cheeseburger. No ketchup left, but I didn't need any because in France even the festival burgers are only cooked "medium", so it wasn't dry like a lump of charcoal.

As usual, too many gentlemen (I use the term loosley) decided it was easier to pee up against any old fence then to walk to the toilets. Gross. Aside from that unfortunate festival fact, it was a great evening. There are still tickets for tonight and tomorrow's mega-lineup of stars (c'mon, you sooooooo wanna know if Amy Winehouse shows up, and if she does, it may be the last time we see her alive, er, I mean live). 

St Cloud is on the southwestern edge of Paris, at the end of metro line 10. Headliners include REM, Amy Winehouse, Tricky, The Raconteurs, The Streets, The Roots, John Spencer Blues Explosion, and Justice. You can get either a one-day pass for €45 or two days for €75. Get your tickets through FNAC for just €65. Those with 2-day passes can also sign up for the campsite (lots of fun if you don't need sleep). Also new this year is Mini Rock-en-Seine for the kids (basically day camp with kids entertainment). Also new this year, reusable mugs (to cut down on plastic cup waste) that you "rent" for €2. As usual, you're not supposed to bring in your own drinks, cameras, or recorders, and there are no cash machines on site, so be prepared.

See last year's write-up here.

After years of extensive restoration works, the 13th-century College des Bernadins, one of the illustrious learning institutions of the Latin Quarter, will be open to the public for the first time to the general public September 5-7 (Portes Ouvertes, 11am-6pm).

Modeled after the Cistercian abbeys of the period, the college was a center of theological and philosophical study up until the French Revolution, when it was transformed into a prison owned by the State. From 1845 until renovations began it housed a fire station and a police academy.

Today it is once again part of the Paris Diocese, and will continue in its tradition of theological education. But for the general public, the 5000m² medieval building (the largest in Paris) will be accessible for music concerts, art expositions, and cinema screenings. After the initial Open House Days, the Pope will be giving a talk there during his visit to Paris on September 12, and then the building will be reopened to the public beginning September 15.

 Don't miss a chance to see this beautiful and unique Parisian monument!

Although my addiction to Ladurée macarons is thoroughly documented, when I first came to Paris well over a decade ago I was totally obsessed with the pastry known as the Religieuses (preferably chocolate). It's a bit like a round, double-decker eclair (or a Boston-cream donut with a donut hole on top). I'd eat the top part first and save the rest for as long as I could hold out (usually an hour). The taste is not really any different than the traditional French eclair (which, like all French pastries, tastes ten times better than the American knock-off), but I liked the shape and the fact that the bakery clerk would always wrap it in a little pyramid of paper tied with a ribbon. Quelle classe!

Of course, I would never turn down an eclair if one was offered to me (hint hint), especially if it was as cool looking as the ones from Fauchon (26 Place de la Madeleine, 8th), who always go out of their way to introduce new flavors and designs. Some people pooh pooh any bakery that dares stray from the traditional chocolate or coffee flavor, but hey, you only live once. And if you happen to be in Paris on September 5-6, you can even celebrate their "Weekend Eclair." Perfect timing for all of the Parisians who have that miserable "back to the grind" look on their faces after their five week vacation. ;-)

For the occaision, Fauchon is introducing 34 different flavors that they have created over the past four years, including both sweet and savory ones (salmon and peas, anyone?), for €5 each.